During the winter of 2006/2007 Shaun Tomson was on the North Shore, working on a documentary. He had a crew around him a lot of the time, ate at Lele’s a lot and seemed to be having a good time. When anyone asked him what the doco was about, he said, “The seventies.”
At the Pipe Masters that winter, Shaun surfed with Cody Graham, Michael and Derek Ho, Tony Moniz and Dane Kealoha in a Legends Heat, before the final. After the heat, Shaun came into the media area up at the scaffolding to watch the final with John Philbin and Sam George. Shaun had just broken his nose out at Backdoor – the first time he had ever done that – but he was stoked. The final was Cory Lopez, Rob Machado, Andy Irons and Kelly Slater. Pipe was firing both ways, but the goofyfoots were soon a sideshow. This was the Pipe Masters where Kelly Slater and Andy Irons went after each other like naked Celts, and Andy came out on top. During the final, Shaun leaned up against the wood window, watching quietly and smiling to himself. He was jazzed he had done well in the Legends heat, amused he had broken his nose. But there was something else in that smile, as he watched two regularfoots dominate Pipe and put on one of the best finals in the history of surfing.
A little over a year later Shaun unveiled his documentary in Santa Barbara, at the Arlington theater, on a dark and stormy night. The weather was lousy, it was Sunday night, but that didn’t keep hundreds of people from showing up to get a first look at a documentary about three years in the middle 70s that changed surfing forever.
There were more people than tickets, the VIP list got all screwed up, Kelly Slater and the director’s mother barely got their tickets and another couple hundred people nearly busted down the theater doors to see Bustin’ Down the Door.
The crowd was thick by 6:00 and as it got close to 7:00, things were getting a little hectic. And then the faces arrived: The Five or Six Horsemen of the modern surf industry. The Godfathers of performance surfing: Shaun Tomson, Ian Cairns, Peter Townend, Michael Tomson, Rabbit Bartholomew, Mark Richards. They looked good, they looked like rock stars on a reunion tour. They were rock stars. That was one of the points of the documentary.
This is a documentary about an era some call the Free Ride generation. This history of what came out of the southern ocean in the middle 1970s and what they did in Hawaii is gospel to surfers of a certain age. But 30 years later, a generation and a half of surfers have benefited from the performance and professional pioneering of these surfers, and Shaun and others thought this new generation should know the gory details – warts and all.
Bustin’ Down the Door details the blood, sweat and fears of Shaun the Prawn, MR, Mohammed Bugs, Kanga, PT and MT and their small group of merry Australian and South African surfers who took clues from Bowie and Ali and shook up the world with their aggressive surfing in Hawaiian waves – and their aggressive promotion in the surfing media.
On screen, speaking into the camera in Hawaii last winter, Shaun Tomson wonders about his own motivation, why he was so competitive and explains it had something to do with his father losing an arm in a vicious shark attack. Ernest Thompson was a top swimmer with Olympic potential, but the shark attack derailed that ambition. Shaun Tomson’s surfing ambition was considered suspect in South Africa as he was growing up and Tomson believes he traveled to Hawaii in 1974 with everything to prove.
Rabbit comes from a broken home, and he has an emotional moment when he describes having to go out and steal $20 to feed his mother and four sisters.
Mark Richards came from a solid home and a loving mum and pop, but he still had something to prove and his family gave him a year to do it.
The years of living dangerously began in 1974, when all those surfers first came to Hawaii, young, ambitious, unknown. There were only a few contests then and very little room for outsiders. All the surfers had their personal and practical reasons for doing well, and they all make it clear they were willing to die in pursuit of greatness.
Bustin’ Down the Door is narrated by the familiar voice of Edward Norton – following in the footsteps of Jan Michael Vincent and Sean Penn – but the real storytelling is done by the principals along with Reno Abellira, Barry Kanaiaupuni, Bernie Baker, Dan Merkel, Randy Rarick, Fred Hemmings, Eddie Rothman, Clyde Aikau, David Gilovich, Phil Jarratt and other guys who were around at the time, on either side of the conflict or right in the middle of it.
The stories have some moments. The ambition of all these surfers was compressed into one slot in the Smirnoff contest in 1975. They wall wanted it, but Fred Hemmings gave the nod to Mark Richards, who didn’t have the $50 entry fee. PT did have the money and he got a round of applause that bordered on an ovation when he explained how he sacrificed $50 to let MR take a slot they all desperately wanted.
MR then takes up the story, explaining how that Smirnoff was held in enormous surf at Waimea, in conditions that made more than a few surfers question “Dead Ahead Fred” Hemmings’ decisions to run it. MR was jazzed to get fourth in his six-man heat, because that meant he didn’t have to paddle out again at nearly closing out Waimea.
But MR did good at that contest, and while it was one for all and all for one with these renegades, Shaun admits to no small amount of jealousy. They were all fueled by pride and need and 20-something ambition and they came to Hawaii. MR got a foot in the door, and they came back to Hawaii the next winter ready to pillage and plunder.
All of these stories of ambition and wipeouts and great sessions and big dreams lead into the winter of 1975/1976, when the Bronzed Aussies and the South Africans dominated Hawaiian surfing: MR won both Sunset events, and Shaun was the first regularfoot to win the Pipeline Masters.
“If they had just done well and kept quiet, everything would have been great,” Randy Rarick said. But Rabbit and Ian made a near-fatal mistake by mouthing off in the surfing media, claiming dominance over Hawaiian surfing and making a series of agro statements that made the volcanoes grumble.
Rabbit and Ian managed to insult an entire island chain of Hawaiians, and the following winter, the aloha matt was whisked away.
Bustin’ Down the Door doesn’t back down from detailing the truly dangerous reception that Rabbit and Ian received when they went back to Hawaii for the winter of 1976/1977. Rabbit was confronted at Sunset, and threatened and beat up and lost teeth. Ian (and Shaun) reveal they both went to town to buy shotguns. Ian slept with a baseball bat under his pillow, and a loaded shotgun in his car: “I knew that if they ever came after me like that again, I would fight my way to my car and kill one of the bastards,” Ian says. “That is how bad it was.”
Bernie Baker and Randy Rarick give the local haole side of the conflict, while Eddie Rothman in shades explains the origins of Da Hui He’e Nalu Black Shorts, and why the brash trumpeting of the Aussies was such a slap in the face to Hawaiian pride.
Ian and Rabbit prove they were not afraid to die by staying in Hawaii when there were serious threats against them. Rabbit describes as “surreal” being taken by Eddie Aikau to a meeting in a convention hall at a big hotel, where 150 Hawaiian surfers read them the riot act.
Nothing any of these guys did out surfing was as ballsy as staying around Hawaii with an entire island turned against them, and to watch this part of the movie is to understand why Shaun, Rabbit, PT, Ian, Michael Tomson and Rabbit are on the Mount Rushmore of professional surfing and modern surfing.
Bustin’ Down the Door is a professional effort, put together with wit and quality by director Jeremy Gosch. Phil Jarrat wrote the narration and Matt Warshaw did the research.
The soundtrack includes Fame by David Bowie and Paint It Black by the Rolling Stones – both songs perfect placed, and that must have cost some shekelim. The rest of the soundtrack is true to the era – although there was no Robin Trower. At the Arlington, the sound quality managed to mangle even Shaun’s perfect elocution, but for the most part BDTD is a quality effort and makes you wonder why it didn’t premiere at Sundance (where Stacy and Sam are killing it with their gang-doc Made in America.)
The Free Ride era of 1974 – 1976 were the years of living dangerously – by land and sea – and Bustin Down the Door details them beautifully. It’s easy to tell a good story when there is a good story to tell, and Bustin’ Down the Door is going to be an eye-opener to a new generation and a half of surfers who have no clue of what the Founding Fathers went through.
Bustin’ Down the Door ends with Shaun getting emotional about the things he went through then, and the things he went through lately. There is a tribute to Shaun’s son Matthew at the end.
To watch Bustin’ Down the Door is to understand Shaun’s quiet smile at the Pipe Masters last winter, as he watched Kelly and Andy have at each other at perfect Pipe. Shaun was the first regularfoot to win the Pipe Masters, and his influence is still resonating today. Rabbit and PT were the original Coolie Kids, and their offspring are winning world titles and giving Kelly and Andy a run for it.
Shaun lost a son to tragedy, but he has many others out there, all following the path he and his Merry Men blazed 30 years ago, crossing the equator to change the world.
Tuesday, February 19, 2008
Bustin' Down the Door Unhinges In Santa Barbara
MONSTER PANCHO: Sullivan Wins the Monster Pro at Pipeline
Hawaii's Pancho Sullivan wiped out the opposition to claim his second Monster Energy Pipeline Pro, presented by Billabong, at Backdoor Pipe today in barreling waves of six to eight feet (wave face heights). Posting a perfect 10-point tube ride as well as the highest heat score of the event - 18.75 points out of 20, in the 30-minute final, his three rivals were all left in need of a combination of scores to turn the tables. The win earned Sullivan $7,000 and 875 World Qualifying Series ratings points. Pancho first won this event back in 2005, a result that catapulted him onto the elite ASP World Championship Tour (WCT).
While the waves were not trademark Pipeline by any standards, they allowed Sullivan to prove he’s not just a big-wave power surfer but a threat to contend with in all quality conditions. He had plenty of opportunity to build momentum and show his worth after denying a main round seed and surfing all the way through from the trials here. By the conclusion of today’s final, Sullivan had contested a total of eight heats - more than any other surfer in the event.
An all-Hawaii affair, second and third place went to fellow WCT surfers Fred Patacchia (14.25 points) and Roy Powers (9.1 points) respectively, with Dustin Barca fourth (6.5 points).
"Conditions were super difficult so my plan was just to chip away," said Sullivan. "With the incoming swell the smaller waves offered more open face, so my aim was to get a decent score and build on that. A lot of times it boils down to being lucky and getting the right waves."
On starting from the trials: "There is so much luck involved. I was just fortunate I didn’t get skunked. I was pretty wave-starved in the semi’s. But I was looking forward to getting as many heats as possible under my beld before the WCT starts. This is a great opportunity to prepare and train."
Patacchia was surprised to keep his grip on second place after giving up 20 minutes into the heat once he realized there was no catching Pancho. Fred opted to leave the water and trade in his surfboard for a pink bodyboard, apparently not concerned by the threat of injury or losing money by dropping his position in the heat. When he wiped out heavily on that, he took to bodysurfing the barrel.
"The thought of injury and money didn’t even enter my mind," said Patacchia. "I was all about the win, so once I saw Pancho had it, I was done."
Neither Powers nor Barca managed to secure decent rides in the last 10 minutes of the heat and Patacchia remained at second for $3,500. Powers earned $2,500 and Barca $2,000.
Along with the prize money, 14 wildcards into the coveted Billabong Pipeline Masters next December were on offer to locals in this event. Sullivan, Patacchia and Powers did not need to take up the offer, already guaranteed of a start through their WCT status. Fourth placed Barca will get a start, along with other highly placed surfers in the event including TJ Barron, Marcus Hickman, Makuakai Rothman, Daniel Jones, Jesse Merle-Jones, Nathan Carroll, Ian Walsh, Kekoa Bacalso and Ola Eleogram. (Complete list not available at time of release.)
Eleogram also received the Todd Chesser Sportsmanship Award today, selected for his never-say-die spirit during the event. Eleogram finished equal ninth overall, losing in the quarterfinals.
The highest placed non-Hawaii surfers were Matt Mohagen (CA), Devon Tresher (Florida) and Brazilian Dantas Wiggolly, all of whom placed equal 13th with fourth place quarterfinal finishes. The top Australian finisher was Anthony Walsh, who fell one round short of the quarterfinals for equal 25th place.
The Association of Surfing Professionals now heads to Australia for the start of the World Championship Tour. The next professional event in Hawaii will be next winter.
FINAL RESULTS
1st - $7,000 - Pancho Sullivan (HI) - 18.75 points (10, 8.75)
2nd - $3,500 - Fred Patacchia (HI) - 14.25 (7.75, 6.5)
3rd - $2,500 - Roy Powers (HI) - 9.1 (7.0, 2.1)
4th - $2,000 - Dustin Barca (HI) - 6.5 (4.5, 2.0)
MONSTER ENERGY PRO: Centeio Seizes the Day
After yesterday's smoke had cleared and the blood had dried from the early session losers (wrong word choice here, let's just call 'em "eliminated field") the second morning of the Monster Energy Pipeline Pro seemed not so bad a scene to be a part of. The swell had bent around thru the night to a more proper NW angle, once again coughing up some Off the Wall nuggets and corner pocket lefts and then there was the Pipe, itself. Seems that Backdoor was wanting some company, even with Rainos Hayes’ "voodoo chop" cross-bump along the face.
Pipe was trying its best to scream back into action; problem was the east wind-swell was playing hell with the peak and everyone knows oil and water don't mix, and especially out here.
Some usual suspects have stayed on for a third day (tomorrow?), more than a few of the “specialists” fell victim to that voodoo chop shutting the door or double-lipping the drop. You either walked away laughing like Florida’s Devon Tresher who pulled a perfecto-10 and a backup 8 or you walked in Andy Irons’ shoes and couldn’t find a friendly ‘face’ out there in the line-up if his life depended on it. And it does, when you’re of the champ’s stature cuz that's what he does best for a living. Walking out of the water with a total 2 - and about the same amount of minutes still remaining in the heat, Andy got attacked by a half-dozen autograph hounds who probably were absolutely clueless that he had just gone down about as hard as you can without smacking the reef – and he probably felt like he had gone head-first with that nightmare anti-performance. Anyways, he’ll lick his wounds and re-group for a better day ahead.
On the plus-side, Joel Centeio killed it in his heat, Pancho Sullivan barreled his way into the next galaxy and that’s where this story ends. The day finished like it started, waves every few minutes, a ton of wind chop where you didn’t want it and a draining tide that kept everyone looking down for those rail road tie reef heads that were gurgling just short of the surface.
Hey, it’s Pipe and that’s why we’re all here, hoping and praying that there’s still yet a legit day out there on the horizon. The countdown’s still tickin’, we’re less than a week from the end of the waiting period and someone’s hinting of a minor swell NOT till Superbowl Sunday. And flat to 2’ until then. What’s another 4-letter word for misery with a "!" at the end?
NORTHERN STATE OF BOARDS: 10 Questions w/ M-10 Shaper Geoff Rashe
Santa Cruz's Geoff Rashe crafts high quality surfboards under his "M10" label. Since we sometimes appear SoCal centric in our subject matter, we thought it appropriate to touch base with the man behind the "10" for a quick 10 questions regarding the state of the surfboard industry in NorCal. - Scott Bass
1) The dust has thoroughly settled from the Clark foam closure, from your vantage does the surfboard industry stand on firm ground?
Geoff Rashe: I think the surfboard industry is still a little shaken up after the Clark Foam debacle. The foam supply is certainly not a problem. What is more significant is that the price of surfboards rose to an extreme that is disproportionate to inflation. This has hurt sales for many of us. Most surfers are not rich, and I think the old price structure was a result of balanced market forces. My opinion is that prices must come down for things to return to firm ground.
2) What types of new construction techniques excite you?
The Firewire thing is cool. People seem to either love it or hate it. Those who hate it might just not have ridden the right shape. Their difficulty to make customs for an affordable price will certainly be an impediment. I'm working on an eps board with parabolic stringers and the rails wrapped with bamboo veneer. This is very exciting.
3) Have we come full circle to realize that the polyurethane foam / hand laminate is still as valid or more valid than ever before?
I believe that the hand laminated polyurethane surfboard is a beautiful thing. That's not to detract from anything else, but the shapeability, the flexibility, the dampness, the cost, and the limited water intrusion, make it timeless. I do not think anything better will come along soon that will compete effectively with this classic construction.
4) What type of construction is your bread and butter?
We make polyurethane/epoxy, and eps/epoxy, as the bread and butter, polyurethane/polyester might be the crust, and Tuflite would be the gravy.
5) What is your take on the overseas surfboard both in terms of quality of product and in terms of competition to the US market?
There are a lot of different boards being made all over the world. The Cobra factory in Thailand is probably the most sophisticated factory in the world in terms of technology and cleanliness. Clearly there are a few Australian manufacturers leading the world industry in terms of performance pu's. China is not yet a threat, and might never be. They are mass production oriented, which is the enemy of quality when you are making surfboards. Good surfboards are hard to make, and control gets lost when you try to make too many. A serious factor that limits the competitiveness of the imports is the weak dollar. We tried to import Brazilian eps boards and nearly lost our shirt because of the dollar. Now we make everything here.
6) What is the number one problem facing M10 surfboards?
Our biggest problem is one we all share: a soft economy.
7) What is the the best solution M10 has come to rely on?
Our best solution is to make everything in-house. It gives me the most control over the business and the boards. It also gives me the best contact with my end customers, which results in them getting what they want quickly and more cheaply, and my job not getting outsourced.
8) Would you say that M10 surfboaards is customer oriented, if so what are some examples?
I think being as customer oriented as possible is the key to long term success in this business. I have a DSD shaping machine behind a glass wall where people can see their board get milled before their eyes and pick it up a couple of weeks later. This is right next to the epoxy glass room with almost no resin smell, so they can see boards getting glassed too. This kind of involving of the surfer in the production of their new board will effectively compete with imports.
9) Is there a need for a unification of the USA board building industry, a figure head, someone everyone can rally around to speak for them, or no?
As I said before, good surfboards are very difficult to make when you up the numbers too much. If we keep it small, no one producer can supply everyone. That means we can all coexist to supply the surfing population as artist and craftsmen. Surftech has their niche too. Not enough has been said about how much they have supported shapers like Dale Velzy and Renny Yater who started this whole thing. We need to work together as surfers who build boards out of love of the sport and the craft. The clothing companies and outsiders trying to make a buck should butt out.
I don't think we need a single figurehead to represent us. I think not. Gordon Clark took on that role and I think he was too swayed by self interest. That would probably happen to anyone in that position. But I like Rusty for a pretty objective guy in a high place. He speaks for us more than anyone.
10) Do you see a new breed of young shapers or have we skipped/missed a generation?
The young breed of shapers will be fewer and farther between as time goes on. I'm 38 and I am part of the last generation of shapers who got the opportunity to do production handshaping for sizable board companies. You really need that all-day after all-day of shaping from a blank with a planer to get really good at it. Now all production boards are preshaped by cnc machines. But there are definitely some young guys out there shaping some nice boards. More power to them.
SOUND AND VISION: Check Out Hurley's New Rizal Tanjung Movie
SOUND AND VISION: Check Out Hurley's New Rizal Tanjung Movie
More surfing videos on SurferMag.com
BIG NIGHT, BIG CHARGERS: Paradisis Claims Prize at Oakley Surfing Life Awards
The nation's top big wave surfers were bracing for a long night on the town after Western Australia's Alex "Alfy" Cater took out the coveted Oakley Surfing Life Biggest Wave Award at a gala presentation evening in Sydney’s Bondi.
Cater, who’d been runner-up to last year’s winner Damon Eastaugh, took home $20,000 in cash and a brand new Sea-Doo personal watercraft for his effort, and immediately announced he’d be making good on his pre-night promise to the 11 other ride entrants. “It’ll be my shout tonight now for sure!” Cater says.
His ride, recorded last September at the terrifying deepwater break known as ‘Cow Bombie’ near Margaret River, Western Australia, was estimated at over 14 metres in face height by the judging panel (45 feet in surfer-style imperial measurement).
Cater’s wave barely edged out three other rides recorded on the same day by Queenslander Mark Visser and Hawaiians Jamie Sterling and Ian Walsh, who travelled halfway round the globe to ‘Cow Bombie’ to meet the swells.
Alfy’s reaction? “A sigh of relief really mate,” he says. “Now I can pay the taxman all the money I’ve owed him for the past few years.”
The Award will open doors for him in the growing global big-wave competition field, he says. Big surf competitions are now held in South Africa, Hawaii and California along with these Awards. “It’s something I really want to pursue if I can … I’ve been to Hawaii and California and met a lot of the guys who ride their big spots and I’d love to challenge them.”
The jetski will come in handy too – since not long ago, Alfy and his tow partner Ian “Wooly” McPherson had to abandon their own ski under a massive set of 10-metre waves waves at ‘Cow Bombie’. “The ski conked out about three metres from the worst possible spot… We got three waves on the head and that was it for the ski.”
The fact that they were six kilometres from land at the time barely raises Alfy’s eyebrow – which is a little clue as to the sort of person who takes on surf in this range.
Since being inaugurated five years ago, the Oakley Surfing Life Big Wave Awards have revealed a side of surfing long hidden behind the glittering world pro tour arena – a group of surfers who’ve used their home-grown skills and experience to push the sport’s natural limits, often without much publicity or attention outside their peers and slightly horrified onlookers.
“We’re all pretty rough and ready I suppose but we’re doing this because we love it,” he says. “In a way this Award might change some things for me but it won’t change why I go surfing.”
As for Wooly, who towed him into the Award-winner: “He owns a surf shop and he’s one of my sponsors, so he won’t be seeing the colour of my money!” Alfy laughs.
Best Overall Performance Award for the season went to Tasmania’s Marti Paradisis, who pronounced himself “over the moon” after his series of amazing tube rides at the Apple Isle’s remote Shipstern Bluff reefbreak swept the judging panel’s vote.
“It’s on behalf of all the guys I surf with at ‘Shippies’ and who I know could win this Award too …we’re stoked to have waves in our backyard that are as good as anywhere in the world.”
The Shooter Award for photography went to Jamie Scott for his image of Cater’s winning ride.
See the entries for yourself at http://www.surfinglife.com.au/bigwaveawards.
GETTING NUCLEAR: San Onofre Power Plant Crackdown
Last week, Southern California had a tremendous environmental victory. With an 8-2 vote by the California Coastal Commission opposing the proposed Toll Road, Trestles and the surrounding area received a marvelous new breath of life. A day later, along with countless other happy souls, I received an email from The Surfrider Foundation thanking everyone for their support, and informing those who may have missed the news. One sentence, however, rings incredibly true, and quite relevant considering recent events: “… while the Coastal Commission victory carries huge clout--we must not rest on our laurels!” The author, Stefanie Sekich could not be more right.
Just south of Trestles lies San Onofre, with the San Onofre Nuclear Generating Station (SONGS) hurtling forth from terra firma. On January 14th, the U.S. Nuclear Regulatory Commission (NRC) issued a press release detailing safety lapses at the plant that were nerve wracking to say the least. Among them lay the culprit which finally rousted the NRC to demand changes. As described in their press release, “an investigation by the NRC determined that a fire protection specialist provided inaccurate information about hourly fire watch rounds they were supposed to make while working the midnight shift at the plant from April 2001 to December 2006.” For five years this employee went unchecked, not to mention the worker’s responsibilities.
Which begs the question, How could such a gross refusal of responsibility go unnoticed for so long? San Clemente resident, and owner of local surf shop Icons of Surf, Ken Mockett has his opinion, “I see a disregard for ethics which is a problem that goes from personal to business,” says Mockett. “These employees lacked the ethics to do what they were entrusted to do. They decided they knew better than those who set the standard and therefore shucked their responsibility.”
Mockett has a vested interest in San Onofre. Not only does he live near the plant and surf near the plant, but the boards sold at Icons are also favorites of San O. regulars. From economic to recreational investment in the area, Mockett believes the problem speaks more than simply about the individual employees indicted.
“I would imagine it is a trend of the company they work for. Individual ethics usually are a representation of the company’s corporate ethics. The problem starts at the top and filters downward.”
Mockett raises a good point. As stated by NRC Region IV Administrator Elmo E. Collins, “The NRC depends on a good faith effort of nuclear power plant workers to follow regulations.” While there were other safety precautions in place within the plant to prevent fires, such negligence should not even occur in the first place. The fact that it did occur, and continued to do so for five years unnoticed, speaks volumes about the employee’s superiors. The technology and components utilized in the plant are far too powerful and dangerous for such cavalier action by the SONGS employees. This instance suggests there needs to be more regulation than a “good faith effort.”
When contacted, Scott Burnell, a spokesman for the NRC, commented that “It is important, but as we point out in the press release, there are several other fire protection systems and methods in place, such that the over-all ability of the plant to deal with the fire is not affected. But we certainly do take it very seriously, that any employee would put down a false record of any activity at a plant.” While this is reassuring to hear, such Monday morning quarterbacking should not be necessary.
With the potential for disaster that is inherent with a nuclear power plant, it is evident that a simple “good faith” approach to ensure the safety of the plant, the people, and the environment is not sufficient. While the fire check situation is what finally prompted the NRC to investigate, it is clear that such irresponsible behavior is not atypical. Within the past year the NRC found that, “A radiographer deliberately failed to adhere to the terms of a radiation work permit; a technician willfully failed to control the work activities of an unqualified technician performing work on safety-related equipment, which rendered a safety system inoperable for a short time; and two willful violations have been documented for security-related matters.” Quite an abysmal report card for the old refrigerator.
From possible budget cut beach closures, to watershed crusades, and into nuclear plant regulation, the scope of Sekich’s words becomes remarkably apparent. Southern California beaches continue to have their work cut out for them. According to Burnell, the NRC will be there to help, “NRC’s mission is to ensure that every commercial nuclear power plant, and any facility that uses nuclear materials on the civilian side of things is doing so safely and in a way that is not going to affect the public or the environment.” Riding on the coattails of the Trestles victory, it cannot be argued that surfers are lazy, uninformed, or unmotivated. It’s taken some pretty serious events, but it can safely be said that the Spicoli persona has been put to bed. We got one nice snap off the Trestles victory, now it’s time to rebound and pump like hell to keep this wave going.
Relevant links:
http://www.nrc.gov/reading-rm/doc-collections/news/2008/08-004iv.html
http://www.10news.com/news/15047670/detail.html
NIXON HIGH TIDE HOLD 'EM: Adventure Begins On Day One
So, Day 1 of the Nixon High Tide Hold ‘Em is in the books. Just assembling the crew and getting to the island seems to have been the biggest mission thus far, but then again, once you set foot on Tavarua there’s not much else to worry about. An interesting amalgamation pro surfers, snowboarders, BMXers, industry moguls, movie stars, ultimate fighters, and a few others that I’m probably forgetting are all bringing something unique to this unique event.
As things look right now, it sounds like there’s a bit of swell on tap for the weekend, so that should help feed the froth. Already the crew’s gotten into some fun, head-high surf, and after a solid 16 hours of travel, that’s a good thing. Unfortunately Dusty Payne and Casey Brown’s boards have yet to arrive, but otherwise Cheyne Magnusson, Lelani Hurst, Ricky Whitlock, and Dylan Graves had a field day in the empty Cloudbreak lineup. CJ Kanuha, as expected, has proved to be a constant source of entertainment, dazzling the island workers and guests alike with his enthusiastic story telling.
Also on tap has been a fair bit of fishing. Tito Ortiz, yes, the Tito Ortiz that you’ve seen on The Apprentice and doing battle in the octagon, is leading the charge, reeling in a fair sized trevally. Kanuha and photographer/Tavarua aficionado Tom Servais had some nibbles yesterday, but ended up empty handed. It’s only Day One, and considering how much life is in this ocean, it’s only a matter of time before we’re eating sashimi.
Then there are the other events that the good people at Nixon have planned, most notably a poker tournament, a round-robin ping pong championship, and most importantly a full-on, no holds barred Guitar Hero contest. Stay tuned, as things are certainly going to get interesting.
NIXON HIGH TIDE HOLD 'EM: Getting Acquainted On Day Two
It's pretty damn easy to be cynical about a trip like this. I know I'm just as guilty as anybody. I mean, really, who wants to hear about a bunch of pro surfers and celebrity types hanging out at a plush island resort, living the easy life, surfing perfect waves by day, clinking glasses by night. I know it's the kind of story that never would have sucked me in. But now, after being on Tavarua for the past couple of days with this eclectic crew, I guess it's safe to say that my attitude's changed for the better. It doesn't matter where you are, or what the waves are like, or who's funding the adventure, at the end of the day it's like any surf trip. You have some good laughs, learn a bit about yourself, and learn a lot about the folks you're traveling with.
Take Aamion Goodwin for example, I'm sure you've seen countless pictures of him pulling into pits at Pipe or styling through another Cloudbreak section, but what most people don't realize is the guy's more of a waterman than just about any of us could ever hope to be. This morning I found him out on the deck overlooking Restaurant's building a Fijian sling with an old bike tire, some wire, and a rusted old steel rod. He then proceeded to explain how diving with sharks "isn't that big of a deal, unless their in the middle of a feeding frenzy."
Or Tito Ortiz, he may not be the most avid surfer, but he's a world champion ultimate fighter who overcame more than his fair share of adversity, and I never would have known a thing about him unless we got to hang out on the island. Growing up in Huntington Beach in a fairly dysfunctional household, in high school one teacher had the audacity to tell him he was "never going to amount to shit." His autobiography hits bookstores in June, so I won't spoil the surprise too much, but it is safe to say he very easily could have been a statistic rather than a success story.
Then there's a guy like Bob Hurley. At the tip of the surf industry spear, it would be amazingly easy for him to spend his time on Tavarua engrossed in business decisions or constantly glued to his Blackberry, but watching him around the Fijians and the cast of characters on the island he shows a genuine, heartfelt interest in the lives and pursuits of everybody. Whether talking with Joy Bryant about her latest Hollywood roll in which she plays Martin Laurence's wife, or asking Tito about is training regiment, or telling a joke to a writer from New York who just showed up, he's just one of the boys, nothing more, nothing less, just a surfer stoked to be tripping in the South Pacific.
The point of all this rambling is that surfaries, whether with friends or complete strangers, afford you the opportunity to learn and gain insight into the lives of others. During that down time when the wind is blowing or the tide is too low you get to delve below the surface, find out more than just where somebody's from or what their favorite cocktail is. Throw away all the trappings of the surf industry, the media's portrayal of certain characters, or all the other bullshit that surrounds everyday life, and it becomes so obvious that when you get right down to it, there's really nothing better than a good surf trip.
