NIXON HIGH TIDE HOLD 'EM: Getting Acquainted On Day Two ~ Snow Ski Jet Ski Surfing Boating Windsurfing Fishing Kayaking Kite Boarding

Tuesday, February 19, 2008

NIXON HIGH TIDE HOLD 'EM: Getting Acquainted On Day Two

It's pretty damn easy to be cynical about a trip like this. I know I'm just as guilty as anybody. I mean, really, who wants to hear about a bunch of pro surfers and celebrity types hanging out at a plush island resort, living the easy life, surfing perfect waves by day, clinking glasses by night. I know it's the kind of story that never would have sucked me in. But now, after being on Tavarua for the past couple of days with this eclectic crew, I guess it's safe to say that my attitude's changed for the better. It doesn't matter where you are, or what the waves are like, or who's funding the adventure, at the end of the day it's like any surf trip. You have some good laughs, learn a bit about yourself, and learn a lot about the folks you're traveling with.

Take Aamion Goodwin for example, I'm sure you've seen countless pictures of him pulling into pits at Pipe or styling through another Cloudbreak section, but what most people don't realize is the guy's more of a waterman than just about any of us could ever hope to be. This morning I found him out on the deck overlooking Restaurant's building a Fijian sling with an old bike tire, some wire, and a rusted old steel rod. He then proceeded to explain how diving with sharks "isn't that big of a deal, unless their in the middle of a feeding frenzy."

Or Tito Ortiz, he may not be the most avid surfer, but he's a world champion ultimate fighter who overcame more than his fair share of adversity, and I never would have known a thing about him unless we got to hang out on the island. Growing up in Huntington Beach in a fairly dysfunctional household, in high school one teacher had the audacity to tell him he was "never going to amount to shit." His autobiography hits bookstores in June, so I won't spoil the surprise too much, but it is safe to say he very easily could have been a statistic rather than a success story.

Then there's a guy like Bob Hurley. At the tip of the surf industry spear, it would be amazingly easy for him to spend his time on Tavarua engrossed in business decisions or constantly glued to his Blackberry, but watching him around the Fijians and the cast of characters on the island he shows a genuine, heartfelt interest in the lives and pursuits of everybody. Whether talking with Joy Bryant about her latest Hollywood roll in which she plays Martin Laurence's wife, or asking Tito about is training regiment, or telling a joke to a writer from New York who just showed up, he's just one of the boys, nothing more, nothing less, just a surfer stoked to be tripping in the South Pacific.

The point of all this rambling is that surfaries, whether with friends or complete strangers, afford you the opportunity to learn and gain insight into the lives of others. During that down time when the wind is blowing or the tide is too low you get to delve below the surface, find out more than just where somebody's from or what their favorite cocktail is. Throw away all the trappings of the surf industry, the media's portrayal of certain characters, or all the other bullshit that surrounds everyday life, and it becomes so obvious that when you get right down to it, there's really nothing better than a good surf trip.

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